The bounty of the Atlantic, fresh produce from the Farmer’s Market and a blending of international styles combine to give Halifax a truly unique dining experience. And the deep roster of talented chefs, who come there from kitchens around the globe, reflects that. From established masters to culinary upstarts, the city’s chefs have made Halifax into Eastern Canada’s hottest dining destination. Read on to learn their secrets, in their own words.

MARTIN KEYZLAR, FIASCO—Originally from the Czech Republic, Martin Keyzlar brings a European flair to his Brenton Street dining room. Named Fiasco, this spot is anything but. Just follow Hollywood’s bright lights: Keyzlar has cooked for stars like Harrison Ford, Elizabeth Hurley and Tom Selleck.

Personal style: I love the old style cooking, which gives the food its layers of flavour... homemade chicken stock, homemade tomato sauce and pesto, fresh herbs—basic goodness. I dress up the Coquilles St. Jacques and the Cordon Bleu with rosemary cream sauce that way. Mentor: I can say without hesitation Maurizio Bertossi. I had only worked for him for a short time but my experience with him was paramount. Roots: I always had a good relationship with food but I did not choose this profession. It chose me! The best part of the day: Enjoying a laugh and a glass of wine with friends after the service is finished. Kitchen challenges: Finding good people to work with, who share the same goal to serve the client well. Diners don’t know: People see the glory at the end but never the fire through the night, the pressure of performance, the pressure of running a business and the times when the business challenges you. An evening off: When I am off I eat at home usually, with the children... either homemade pizza or my wife's Sunday chicken. We enjoy the time at home because we are working usually in the evenings. Atlantic flavours: I love what Atlantic Canada has to offer! Fresh seafood like tuna, scallops, halibut, even squid. I enjoy all the bounties of local organic growers and game like pheasant. Memorable creations: I make a dish referred to as “Sean Penn.” I cooked for him when he made a movie here years ago. It is spaghetti a la olio with a piece of tenderloin on top with a tomato white wine reduction. This dish is on the menu and it is not called “Sean Penn” but it is funny when the frequent clients ask for it by that name. Kitchen essentials: I cannot live without tongs and a good spatula.

KENT THIBAULT, RHUBARB GRILL & CAFE—Steps from the ocean on Peggy’s Cove Road, the Rhubarb Grill & Café has been one of the province’s best kept dining secrets. But the word is out now. With a restaurant career that’s taken him from New Brunswick to Australia to Bermuda, Kent Thibault brings a wealth of globetrotting experience to his new role as head chef.

Personal style: Being mindful of the quality of even the most basic ingredients and fully engaging in even the simplest most mundane tasks results in a diverse range of creative signature dishes that embody Rhubarb’s philosophy. Roots: After several years of short-order cooking I realized it was something I could take further. Once I started my apprenticeship and immersed myself in food I was hooked. Kitchen challenges: Coming from a small New Brunswick town, my greatest challenge was overcoming my ignorance of food. I didn’t have an innate understanding of fine food and wine and had to study twice as hard and work twice as hard to prove myself. An evening off: I go to Fid or Gio. Atlantic flavours: They’re reflected with dishes like Dragon’s Breath Cauldron (featuring N.S. artisan blue cheese), Crème Acadienne (featuring maple sugar and maple wine) and Frangelico Pork (featuring Annapolis Valley Tenderloin). Maritime favourites: Giant bay scallops, char-grilled to a perfect medium doneness, with a toasted garlic-parsley-chardonnay-butter sauce. Memorable creations: Poulet Thibault because it has everything—crispy flavourful chicken cutlets (local pasture fed chicken), rich complex sauce (tomato-meat glaze-Jost Port) and the creamy tanginess of chevre (goat cheese from Aylesford). TV cooking shows: I used to watch The Galloping Gourmet with Graham Kerr religiously as a kid. I get a kick out of Gordon Ramsey when he chews out chefs for having filthy kitchens.

PAOLO COLBERTALDO, JANE'S ON THE COMMON—The area around Halifax Common isn’t noted as a dining destination, but after 2.5 years at Jane’s on Robie Street, chef Paolo Colbertaldo has built a loyal following. His menus reflect the best in down-home cooking: fresh ingredients, comforting aromas and a little flair.

Personal style: I like to cook simple fresh food. My biggest influence was working to ensure our suppliers’ produce, meat and fish were local. I wanted our ingredients to be fresh and local. Inspiration: I am very inspired by the chef Ming Tsai who has a restaurant outside of Boston called Blue Ginger serving Asian-influenced food. He calls it “east meets west.” Roots: I come from an immigrant Italian family, food and cooking were always important—I guess it was in the cards. The best part of the day: Finishing a busy shift when everything went smoothly and my beer awaits. Maritime Favourites: Fish cakes. I like to take a modern twist and do them “Thai style.” Memorable creations: Smoking salmon with tea, the tea smoking gives the fish a subtle sweet smoky flavour. You can do it inside: all you need is a wok and bamboo steamer.

ALAN JOHNSTON, MacASKILL'S RESTAURANT—Chef Alan Johnston is a mainstay of the city’s dining scene. He’s been with MacAskill’s for 18 years, owning it for the last 11. As befits a restaurant with some of the finest ocean views around, his menu emphasizes seafood: unpretentious, hearty and consistently delicious.

Personal style: I consider my style to be fresh and simple, which is reflected in our nightly features like pecan-crusted halibut with Thai stir fried vegetables or grilled salmon with roasted garlic pesto shrimp and scallops. Mentors: I continue to be mentored by an old and best friend, Geoff Chapman, who is chef and owner of a superb restaurant that is training ground for Michelin Star restaurants, The Fat Duck in England. The best part of the day: Receiving exuberant feedback from our guests that have had a wonderful dining experience. There’s no better feeling than working hard with a great team to make this happen. Diners don’t know: It’s stressful, it’s hot and it can be unbelievably demanding but it’s fun and rewarding. I truly love cooking. Atlantic Canadian cuisine: I thoroughly enjoy the cuisine from Chives each time I make it there to dine. Memorable creations: Smoked salmon tartare. I’ve served this dish on many memorable occasions—at the Lincoln Center in New York, at the Bogotá Plaza in Colombia and when cooking for Julia Child. It’s always a hit!

COLIN MARCH, ROGI ORAZIO PASTA AND WORLD CUCINA—Nestled in the Hydrostone neighbourhood on Young Street, Rogi Orazio has quickly become one of the city’s hottest restaurants. Since taking over the kitchen in October 2007, chef Colin March has built a loyal following—taking fresh Atlantic seafood in exciting new directions.

Personal style: My style of cooking is not about the complexity of the dish or its tastes, but being able to taste and appreciate the ingredients involved. Mentor: Chef Eric Chauffer, of Le Cordon Bleu. He taught me to respect the ingredient and its quality. The best part of the day: Creating the daily specials. An evening off: There is no such thing as time off. I am always thinking of food and its possibilities and combinations, trying to find better deals, more efficient ways to have things done. The job affects your whole life. You are always surrounded by food and the ideas are endless. Atlantic flavours: We have a lot of seafood on the menu, from Digby scallops and sautéed prawns to our seafood grill and fresh fish of the day. Italian cooking is based on fresh ingredients. Being located in Halifax allows us to have a wide variety of fresh seafood—the possibilities are endless Memorable creations: Braised Guinness lamb shank—taking a tough piece of meat and turning it into a tender, fall-off-the-bone piece. Not to mention the unique flavor of the Guinness beer. Kitchen essentials: A sharp knife and a wooden spoon. TV cooking shows: I enjoy Iron Chef; it’s a good way to pick up ideas. I also enjoy Gordon Ramsey’s Kitchen Nightmares. He is brutally honest... and right.

MAURIZIO BERTOSSI, BISH WORLD CUISINE—For years, Maurizio Bertossi has been a giant on Halifax’s dining scene. He was the founding chef of some of the city’s favourite restaurants, including Da Maurizio and Il Mercato. How committed is he to his craft? His “retirement project” is reshaping a restaurant that’s already one of the city’s best.

Getting here: We wanted to take Bish in a different direction, so in order to do that, I took the role as the chef. It’s my retirement project. Some people love to garden, I love to cook. Mentors: I had the fortune to work with Chef Georges in Southern France when I first began my training. He was a classic French chef, extremely talented and irritable and demanding. He taught me not only cooking skills but life skills as well. I’m afraid I have become a lot like him. The best part of the day: Having coffee in the morning and reflecting on the previous day and realizing what I can do to make it better today. On an evening off: What day off? We either eat at home or you can find us on Monday at 5:30 at Dharma Sushi. Atlantic Canadian cuisine: Atlantic smoked salmon is the king. Memorable creations: When we were living back in Italy one summer evening I made risotto with Verduzzo wine that my uncle made, fresh peas from his garden and local aged Montasio cheese. We still talk about it. TV cooking shows: Iron Chef from Japan—I’m impressed by the enormous talent of the chefs and the unusual ingredients they work with. They create such incredible food under such pressure.

Publication Date: 4/2008