Although scenic highlights can be seen from the road, the real personality of the Canadian Rockies is best experienced along the hiking trail. Walking is free, good exercise and the views are often breathtaking. From short interpretive walks around town to overnight backpacking, there’s something for everyone.

When it comes to recommending hiking trails suited for different interests and levels of fitness, there are no better people to ask than Brian Patton and Bart Robinson, local authors of the Canadian Rockies Trail Guide. First published in 1971, this book is now in its seventh edition—around here it’s known as the ‘hiker’s bible.’ Here is a selection of the writers’ favourite hikes:

BANFF NATIONAL PARK
It doesn’t take long to leave the sidewalk behind in the town of Banff—there are many riverside strolls. But for something more ambitious, Patton recommends the 2.3 km (1.4 mi) walk to the top of Tunnel Mountain that begins from St Julien Rd. “Casual hikers are well rewarded,” says Patton. “It's a great viewpoint for the town of Banff and the Bow Valley, and is justifiably popular.”

The paved trail along the shoreline of Lake Louise provides views to The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. But Patton recommends continuing beyond the lake to the Plain of Six Glaciers. “The glacial sanctuary above Lake Louise is always revealed to its best advantage in first light of a clear morning. If you’re there early, you’ll miss the hordes on this busy trail and be the first customer of the day at Plain of Six Teahouse!” After some 40 minutes along the lakeshore, the trail climbs to the teahouse, which is usually reached after a further 50 minutes—it’s a 5.5 km (3.4 mi) journey one-way. Here, relax with a cool drink and snack in an open meadow—with glacier-capped peaks seemingly so close you can reach out and touch them.

Banff can be busy, so Patton suggests Chephren Lake to balance accessibility with solitude. “This is a magnificent backcountry lake few people discover. I’ve spent many peaceful evenings among the wildflowers on its shores and never see another soul.” The 70 minute, 3.5 km/2.2 mi trail begins at the back of Waterfowl Lake Campground, beside the Icefields Parkway, 57 km (35 mi) north of Lake Louise.

JASPER NATIONAL PARK
This park is renowned for longer trails that require a night or more of backcountry camping, but Patton has day-trip recommendations. When asked about a route accessible from the town of Jasper, he says: “I like Caledonia Lake, with stops at Marjorie and Hibernia Lakes en route. You walk through light forests; there's lots of flowers in early summer.” The 4.2 km (2.6 mi) trail (one-way) strikes out from Cabin Creek Rd (Map 5, 7D) and is part of a network of paths that crisscross Pyramid Bench above town.

Patton also recommends the popular Path of the Glacier Trail, so named because it traverses a barren area left behind by the receding Angel Glacier. The trail also passes an iceberg-filled lake. “I am always amazed such a wildly spectacular setting can be reached by a short, easy trail,” Patton says. The 1.6 km (1 mi) loop can take as little as 30 minutes. Find the trailhead south of Jasper along Hwy 93A and west along Cavell Rd at the Mt Edith Cavell parking lot.

The Ice Explorer trip atop the Athabasca Glacier at the Columbia Icefield is on everyone’s to do list, but Patton also suggests walking the Wilcox Pass Trail. “If I want to photograph bighorn sheep in a high, wild alpine setting, this is my first choice.” Beginning at the campground 3 km (1.8 mi) south of the Icefield Centre (106 km/66 mi south of Jasper), it takes about 90 minutes to climb the 8 km (5 mi) to Wilcox Pass. The trail is mostly above treeline, so you don’t have to go the full distance for stunning panoramas of mountains and glaciers. Even if the sheep are grazing elsewhere, this walk is worthwhile.

YOHO NATIONAL PARK
Both trail guide authors rank the Lake O’Hara area as among their top day-hike destinations. From the lake are a network of trails that lead above treeline to stunning outlooks, alpine lakes, and Opabin Plateau that is dotted with tiny lakes and most magnificent in fall when the larch trees turn a stunning gold. It is possible to walk a couple of short trails in a day, with time for a picnic lunch in an alpine meadow.

For ambitious day-trippers who don’t mind some scrambling, Patton suggests the super-bly rewarding 11.7 km (7.3 mi) Alpine Circuit to Wiwaxy Gap, Lake Oesa, Yukness Ridge, Opabin Plateau, All Soul’s Alpine Route and Schaffer Lake (allow 5+ hours). “It’s high, strenuous and rough,” says Patton. “But if I want to glut myself on the best of the best scenery, this is where I go.” Lake O’Hara is accessible by bus along a road closed to public vehicles—call 250-343-6433 for reservations or standby seat information.

CANMORE
Drive past the Nordic Centre to the Grassi Lakes trailhead on the left side of Spray Lakes Rd. “This path has a little bit of everything,” enthuses Robinson. It climbs past interpretive signs explaining the trail’s history and its pioneer namesake Lawrence Grassi, crosses Canmore Creek, and opens to sweeping town and valley vistas. “The highlight is most definitely the two lakes,” says Robinson of the turquoise/translucent beauties at the end of the trail. Beyond the lakes admire ancient Native rock art and watch for climbers testing their skills on the cliff. Allow 40 minutes to walk the 2 km (1.2 mi) to the lakes.

KANANASKIS COUNTRY
“Choosing a favourite hike in an area as vast as Kananaskis is difficult,” says Robinson. But when pushed he suggests the Upper Kananaskis Lake area in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. A 16 km (10 mi) trail encircles the lake, but if you don’t have four hours simply walk along the lakeshore as far as you like and return the same way.

A 3 km (1.9 km) spur at the south end of the lake climbs to beautiful Rawson Lake, surrounded by towering cliffs. Robinson notes that “hikers who trek up Mt Infatigable, overlooking the north end of the lake, are rewarded with the best views”. It’s a steep 3 km (2 mi) one-way (bring drinking water), so allow four hours for the return journey. Or only go part of the distance—there’s great scenery en route.

These hiking trails, along with over 200 others, are detailed in the Canadian Rockies Trail Guide (Summerthought Publishing, Banff), which is sold in bookstores throughout the region. Local information centres have current trail conditions, and bring suitable clothes on you excursion as mountain weather is very changeable.

Publication Date: 5/2006