The cauliflower might be purple, green or orange at The Bison Mountain Bistro in Banff. But there isn’t any food colouring—it's all natural. Bistro owner Ryan Rivard purchases heirloom varietals from Hotchkiss Herbs & Produce in Calgary, vegetables (such as the colourful cauliflower) grown from seeds that in some instances can be traced back to pioneer days.

Rivard is one of a growing number of restaurateurs in the Canadian Rockies who promote elements of the Slow Food movement, an international organization of producers and restaurant owners that offer alternatives to ubiquitous fast food and people’s lack of interest in the food they eat.

Slow Food is about understanding where what we eat comes from and how it’s produced. It advocates a traditional food culture of eating seasonal foods that are locally grown and produced. The result is fare that is fresher and riper, with more nutrients and flavour. Slow Food allows for a culinary production system that is more sustainable and environmentally friendly, and less reliant on transportation systems. The movement encourages people to spend more time at the table, and reclaim the joy of eating.

Image © —Alistair Barnes, Buffalo Mountain Lodge, Deer Lodge and Emerald Lake Lodge executive chef

BUYING LOCALLY
The mandate of Slow Food adherents is to buy locally when possible. For instance, Rivard purchases tomatoes, potatoes, carrots and herbs from local growers when in season, farm-raised bison from Olson’s High Country Buffalo in Lethbridge (southern Alberta), and handmade cheese from Sylvan Star Cheese, a family-run business in Sylvan Lake (central Alberta) that raises the animals and makes the cheese right on the farm.

The end product is what Rivard calls “Rocky Mountain comfort food.” The beef and potatoes fall into that category—steaks are from cattle raised on Alberta farms and potatoes are organic varietals from Poplar Bluff Farm in Strathmore (east of Calgary). And food at The Bison is produced from scratch, right down to the mustard and ketchup.

“I had my Sunday night dinner on Friday,” a customer once told Rivard. Slow Food is made with care like the ‘meals grandma made’. As people reconnect with their food it increasingly becomes an important part of their lives. “They begin to care where it’s from,” notes Rivard.

EATING WHAT'S IN SEASON
The menu at Quarry Bistro in Canmore changes every season, to coincide with the equinox or solstice. Chef and co-owner David Wyse goes out of his way to purchase local, seasonal food. He makes a weekly trip to the farmer’s market in Calgary. And trucks frequently drop off fresh produce direct from British Columbia farms—from honey and nuts, to cherries and bok choy.

Wyse also makes smaller alterations to the way he prepares dishes during the course of a season. For instance, his ricotta-filled ravioli with a mushroom and sage brown butter sauce features the different types of mushroom depending on what is currently being grown locally. Regular customers enjoy the fact that the dish has a subtly different flavour each time.

In spring, seasonal ingredients include asparagus. During summer, chicken dishes come with wild rice from Manitoba. In winter, root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips often accompany mains. Wyse admits that there are times of the year when he has to go elsewhere for his produce, but whenever possible he buys local, seasonal foods. “I feel comfortable serving products that have a direct link between me and the guy who grew or raised them,” he says.

TAKING TIME FOR FOOD
Although it takes more time and expertise the Slow Food trait of preparing meals from scratch results in great tastes. Jean-François Gouin, chef and owner of Canmore’s Chez François prepares all his soups, consommé and sauces from base ingredients. He notes that others have tried to imitate his eggs Benedict, but their powder-based sauces simply can’t match the smooth and rich flavour of his homemade Hollandaise.

Gouin says that other cooks think he spends too much time in the kitchen, but he’s not in any rush. He even cooks more slowly because lower temperatures can produce more intense flavours and tenderness. For example, a medium-rare rack of lamb takes 30 to 40 minutes to bake at Chez François. Plates come with six vegetables, blanched to preserve nutrients, colour and taste.

These days, clients at better Canadian Rockies' restaurants may have to take more time for meals made the Slow Food way. But the delicious flavours make the wait worthwhile. “There is pleasure in eating,” notes Ryan Rivard. “It should be a celebratory event, not simply about putting something in your stomach. Sit down, relax and enjoy.”

Local eating establishments are listed in our Restaurants section.