Cycling in Kananaskis by Mt Kidd
Cycling in Kananaskis by Mt Kidd
Image © Travel Alberta

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Take a day to explore the 145 km (90 mi) Canmore to Canmore via Kananaskis Village route though Kananaskis Country. This 4250 sq km (1600 sq mi) area of stunning mountains, and over 100 glacier-fed lakes (some stocked with trout) and rivers was set aside by the Alberta government for multi-recreation use. The region is less travelled than Banff, but equally scenic. Kananaskis is home to seven provincial parks, 1300 km (800 mi) of hiking, biking and horseback riding trails, and a 36-hole golf course.

From Canmore, take the TransCanada Hwy east toward Calgary. At the 26 km (16 mi) mark is tiny Bow Valley Provincial Park. The visitor centre has maps for Many Springs Trail, a 2.8 km (1.7 mi) loop around water-fed springs. The park’s winding road ends at a riverside picnic area.

Four km (2.5 mi) east, take the Hwy 40 turn-off to Kananaskis. Cross grazing lands of the Stoney First Nation, then stop at Canoe Meadows—down the hill you may see kayakers running the Kananaskis River whitewater slalom course or rafters skirting the gates. Continuing south, Barrier Lake Visitor Centre (10 km/6 mi south of Hwy 1, 673-3985) provides information and maps. The centre’s name-sake is farther south—a man-made lake overlooking aptly named Mt Baldy.

Developed for the 1988 Winter Olympics, Kananaskis Village has two hotels, restaurants, shops, bike rentals, and an information centre (591-7555). Take the easy and scenic walk along the rim of the plateau. Across the Village access road is a pleasant 1.8 km (1.1 mi) walk to Troll Falls.

Wedge Pond, farther along Hwy 40, is circled by a 1 km (.6 mi) walk and overlooked by a picnic site. Five km (3 mi) after Hwy 40 enters Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, drive 16 km (10 mi) to the end of Kananaskis Lakes Rd. Nature displays and travel information are at Kananaskis Visitor Centre. At Elkwood and Boulton Creek campgrounds interpreters host guided walks, kids’ programs and evening amphitheater shows. The area boasts wetlands animal habitat, and great walking at scenic Upper Kananaskis Lake.

Before returning to Hwy 40, turn left at Smith-Dorrien/Spray Tr. This leads back to Canmore, although much of the 60 km (37 mi) is not paved. The road follows Spray Lake for 20 km (12.5 mi), and descends to Canmore over Whiteman’s Pass.
Best Picnic Spot: If it’s windy at Barrier Lake, choose a table at the poplar tree-protected southernmost site.
Short Hike/Big Reward: Warspite Lake is an easy 2 km (1.2 mi) one-way from Black Prince Cirque picnic (Smith-Dorrien Hwy).
Viewpoint with a Sports Twist: South of Barrier Lake see ski runs of the 1988 Olympics at Nakiska Ski Area (although it's closed in summer).
Roaring River: Downstream from Barrier Lake, the Kananaskis River offers excellent rafting through natural and man-made rapids. Water releases from the dam are timed to ensure maximum fun.
Best Links: Designed by famous golf architect Robert Trent-Jones below Mt Lorette and Mt Kidd, Kananaskis Country Golf Course is a great value. Thirty-six holes of unrelenting beauty offer 149 sand bunkers and water on 20 holes. Even non-golfers visit their Clubhouse restaurant for the amazing view, good food and reasonably priced menu.
Saddle Up: Book a Boundary Ranch Ride and Lunch two hour ridge ride followed by a BBQ steak meal at the rustic log-built Ranch.
Where to Sleep: Delta Lodge at Kananaskis and Executive Resort at Kananaskis are full service Kanananaskis Village hotels. Alternatives are Ribbon Creek Hostel (762-4122), Mt Kidd RV Park (591-7700), Sundance Lodges (591-7122) teepee or trapper tents, and Peter Lougheed Park campsites (591-7226).
Provisions: General stores at Fortress Junction and Boulton Creek offer camping supplies, groceries and souvenirs, but most shops and restaurants are located at Kananaskis Village.
Biggest Patio: Kananaskis Village Courtyard has gardens, fish-filled pond, eateries and a nearby playground.
Smooth Bike Trails: Off-road paved trails are accessed from Kananaskis Village with bike rentals—ride south past the golf course and RV park to Wedge Pond for a picnic.
Watch for Wildlife: Bighorn sheep, deer, elk, moose and bears can often be spotted en route. A favourite haunt for bighorn sheep is beside the Smith-Dorrien/Spray Tr before the descent into Canmore.
Big Bird: During the golden eagle migration each Mar/Apr and Sept/Oct, 6000 majestic birds soar above Kananaskis peaks en route from Mexico to their northern Canadian nests.
Powerful Water: Spray River water held by dams and diverted to three generation plants produces enough electricity to power 10 towns the size of Canmore.

Upper Kananaskis Lake
Upper Kananaskis Lake
Image © Travel Alberta

KANANASKIS TRAIL PICK
“Choosing a favourite hike in an area as vast as Kananaskis is difficult,” says Bart Robinson co-author of the widely available Canadian Rockies Trail Guide. But when pushed he suggests the Upper Kananaskis Lake area in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. A 16 km (10 mi) trail encircles the lake, but if you don’t have four hours simply walk along the lakeshore as far as you like and return the same way. A 3 km (1.9 km) spur at the south end of the lake climbs to beautiful Rawson Lake, surrounded by towering cliffs. But Robinson notes: “Hikers who trek up Mount Infatigable, overlooking the north end of the lake, are rewarded with the best view.” It’s a steep 3 km (2 mi) one-way (bring drinking water), so allow four hours for the return journey. Or go part way—there’s great scenery en route. Canadian Rockies Trail Guide has many other Kananaskis trail suggestions, or visit one of the area visitor centres.

Hiking by Kananaskis River
Hiking by Kananaskis River
Image © Travel Alberta

THE NAME KANANASKIS
The valley, river and pass were named Kananaskis during the Captain John Palliser expedition of 1857. Although the moniker means ‘meeting of the waters’, Palliser named the region after a legendary Native man named Kananaskis who survived an axe blow. First Nations called the valley home before Europeans arrived, and in 1894, Red River settler James Sinclair and Cree chief Mackipictoon guided pioneers to the area.

Publication Date: 6/2007