Bordering Banff National Park to the south and west is the Kootenay Rockies region of British Columbia. Visitors come here to enjoy skiing and other winter pastimes available in Banff, as well as motorized activities not allowed in the national parks such as heli-skiing and snowmobiling. It’s an easy day trip from Banff to the Kootenay Rockies, and operators such as Kicking Horse and Panorama ski areas, White ‘n’ Wild and Toby Creek Adventures snowmobile companies, and RK Heliski offer daily shuttles.

DOWNHILL SKIING
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort: We like this ski area for its three large and rugged powder bowls, and the Golden Eagle Express gondola that shuttles us quickly from base to upper ridge in comfy 8-person cabins. It’s a long, exhilarating run down the highest vertical rise of all Canadian Rockies resorts (1260 m/4133 ft). Kicking Horse is called the “Champagne Capital of Canada” for its abundant dry snow. The resort is near Golden, under two hours west of Banff, and one hour from Lake Louise via Hwy 1.

Insider tips:
• Why drive? The daily Powder Express motorcoach from Banff/Lake Louise is $85 and includes a lift pass—reserve 403-760-5465.
• Our favourite glades are accessible from the CPR Ridge traverse off the gondola. We also enjoy the steep Whitewall slope that descends into Feuz Bowl (once heli-skiing domain)—ride the Stairway to Heaven quad and go right.
• The 10-acre, wildlife-themed Horse Play Corral family fun zone features contour grooming, slow skiing area and play trails kids love.
• 18-month to 5-year olds can join Kicking Horse Kids Club while you make turns.
• Above all other ski area eateries we recommend Eagle’s Eye, Canada’s highest. By the gondola upper terminal at 2350 m (7700 ft), the restaurant has a huge fireplace, vaulted ceilings and stunning views—the food is good too! On busy days arrive early or late to avoid the noon rush, or reserve Fri, Sat or Sun dinner with free gondola ride.
• On weekends, musicians play the daylodge bar and deck.
• “Hidden” village eateries are Sushi Kuma, Horse Thief Café (sample Kicking Horse Coffee) and The Peaks Bar & Grill.
• Book ‘ski-in/out’ lodging. Call 1-866-754-5425.
• Splurge on an Eagle Eye Suite. $1995 buys a night for two with personal ski instructor, valet service, 24/7 personal chef and first tracks. (We have not sampled this for ourselves).
• What’s New: Easier entrances into the bowls, new grooming machines, glades on the lower mountain, Magic Carpet novice lift, tubing park and skating rink.
• What’s in a Name: Kicking Horse Resort, River and Pass are named for Sir James Hector’s 1858 railroad route quest when he was kicked by a horse. Presumed dead, Hector regained consciousness as he was being prepared for burial.

Panorama Mountain Village: This ski area is 17 km (11 mi) from Invermere via Toby Creek Rd. Three quad chairs (2 high speed) ascend the 1220 m (4000 ft) vertical rise. A daily ski bus departs Banff—reserve at 403-762-5900.

Our favourite powder steeps are Taynton Bowl (1000 acres of former heli-ski terrain) and Extreme Dream. Cruisers enjoy groomed frontside slopes, while shredders go for the terrain park. Snowmaking (improved this season) covers 40% of the area, and Toby Chair runs are usually lit to 9 pm. Book on-hill lodging, 1-800-663-2929. Guests access a large hot pool complex.

CUSTOM HELI-SKIING
Packages Heli-skiing is available two hours from Banff at RK Heliski Panorama. Participants choose from 3- or 5-descent all-inclusive packages that include a heliplex breakfast, powder ski rental, safety gear, guide, Bell 212 11-passenger helicopter lifts and on-slope lunch. Skiers/boarders are placed in groups of similar abilities. It's an experience of a lifetime for many, so RK allows customers to customize their heli-skiing package.

Options include:
• Transportation to the heliplex by bus, van, limousine or even helicopter
• Choose from various models of ‘fat’ skis
• Form or join a smaller group aboard RK’s 5-passenger Astar B3 helicopter
• Make it a multi-day experience with lodging in Banff, a Panorama condo or luxury home, or historic Firlands Ranch
• Add extra activities like snowmobiling
• Dinner at Choppers Landing, or private heli-fondue at Panorama’s Summit Hut.

“At times I'm like a travel agent,” says RK sales manager Sandra Ryzek with a laugh.

NICE DRIVES
The Kootenay Rockies region includes two of Canada’s Rocky Mountain parks that offer spectacular sightseeing:
Yoho National Park: Take Hwy 1 west of Banff past Lake Louise. Then, cross the Continental Divide and enter Yoho Park, a 1310 sq km (507 sq mi) preserve of towering peaks, deep valleys and stunning lakes. Yoho derives its name from a Cree word that expresses awe. It’s an 84 km (52 mi) drive from Lake Louise to Golden.

Stop en route to read panels that describe historic spiral railway tunnels inside Big Hill. Look for a train at the tunnel entrance and exit rising on a 360-degree loop and passing over itself as it gains height.

Detour off the highway at Emerald Lake Rd to see a natural rock bridge that spans the Kicking Horse River. Continue to picturesque Emerald Lake—it’s ringed with a cross-country ski trail and is partially cleared for skating. Emerald Lake Lodge offers award-winning dining—we like their antique Yukon gold rush-vintage bar. A sport rental shop, sleigh rides and dog sledding are nearby.

At the 250-resident town of Field, visit the Visitor Centre to see a small display of dinosaur bones and 500 million year-old Cambrian Period fossils collected from the nearby Burgess Shales. Lunch at Truffle Pigs Café and old-time general store.

Kootenay National Park: Take Hwy 93 south between Banff and Lake Louise. It’s a 94 km (58 mi) scenic drive over the Continental Divide and through Vermilion and Kootenay river valleys to the village of Radium Hot Springs.

Blackened landscape from the 2003 Tokumm-Verendrye fire covers 40 km (25 mi) of the route. 12% of 1406 sq km (543 sq km) Kootenay Park was torched in the month-long blaze, but lush new vegetation (seen spring to fall) teems beneath the charred trees.

Walk at the recently reopened Marble Canyon trail, where bridges cross the deep chasm and icy creek. New panels interpret the canyon and wildfire significance. South of the Canyon is a short trail to the Paint Pots where First Nations people gathered coloured ochre to decorate bodies, tipis and clothing. Further south is the more ambitious (but still easy) 2.6 km (1.6 mi) Dog Lake trail to walk, snowshoe or cross-country ski.

As you drive through narrow Sinclair Canyon near Radium, admire the towering iron-rich cliffs of Redwall Fault. Nearby, bighorn sheep lick roadside minerals near Mt Wardle. Watch for elk, deer and bears (in spring) in meadows to the north.

HOT SPRINGS
Radium Hot Springs is a community of family-owned motels and restaurants 134 km (83 mi) southwest of Banff via Hwy 93S. The Visitor Centre houses heritage and nature displays, and there’s a Stations of the Cross sculpture display behind the building.

This village is known for the Radium Hot Springs pools. Set within red Sinclair Canyon cliffs, the complex includes a spacious pool of 40ºC (104ºF) mineral waters, cooler swimming pool, jetted plunge pool, and day spa. Bathing suit and towel rentals are available. Show your Park pass for an admission fee discount.

The Kootenai Indians used these “sacred” waters for generations, believing they cured illness. The first 1914 concrete bathing pool has undergone five major renovations. In 1951, the Aquacourt you see today was completed—it’s a federal heritage building for its modernist design in contrast to the rustic style that previously dominated National Park buildings.

Fascinating fact: The Radium Hot Springs cool pool is home to the Columbia Valley Swim Club. This is the only club in Canada able to offer outdoor swimming programs in winter.

Fairmont Hot Springs. is 37 km (23 mi) south of Radium on Hwy 93/95. Situated by Columbia Lake, Rocky and Purcell mountains rise on either side. Fairmont began as a stagecoach stop over 100 years ago when Sam Brewer offered travelers respite at his hot springs camp. Brewer’s house still stands at the resort entrance.

The largest, odourless hot springs pools in Canada are at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort (1-800-663-4979). Two pools are open during the winter—the larger, at 24.5 m (80 ft), is kept at 31ºC (88ºF), while the smaller is 40ºC (104ºF). The Pool Side store sells swim suits.

Fairmont’s family ski area has a triple chair, platter lift, small half-pipe and terrain park. Nearby are 20 km (12 mi) of x-country ski trails. The 4.5 star lodge has restaurants, lounges and a spa. In early April, you can ski, swim and golf in the same day.

Hot Tip: Fairmont has natural waterfall-fed pools by the river, and the historic Indian Baths bathhouse with one-person stone tubs. Neither is regularly maintained, but often conditions are favourable for a soak.

Lussier Hot Springs is a rustic venue—there’s no charge to use the four small rock-lined 43º C (110º F) to 34º C (94º F) pools by the Lussier River. Amenities consist of a change room and outhouse. Take White Swan forestry road, 17.5 km (11 mi) off Hwy 93/95 from Canal Flats.

KIMBERLEY PLATZL
The Bavarian-theme town of Kimberley is 84 km (52 mi) south of Fairmont via Hwy 93 and 95A. Its Platzl is a pedestrian zone of cafés and stores—peaked roof, wood paneled buildings are painted with colourful murals. Here resides the world’s largest freestanding cuckoo clock. Enjoy a stein of German beer, dine on schnitzel, and visit Kimberley Heritage Museum with history and mining exhibits. Centre 64 (250-427-4919) is Kimberley’s art and theatre venue.

Nearby Kimberley Alpine Resort ski area (250-427-5381) has 5 lifts (one a high speed quad), long groomed runs (some night-lit), glades and on-hill lodging. Mountaintop showshoe tours include chocolate fondue. Kimberley Nordic Centre offers classic and skating tracks, and a 3.3 km (2 mi) night-lit loop.

NATIVE INITIATIVE
St Eugene Resort (1-866-292-2020) is near Kimberley beside the St Mary River. Now a 4.5 star hotel and casino, this impressive stone building has an interesting history.

The Oblate Order founded the Mission in 1873, and in 1910 the Industrial and Residential school was built to house 5000 Aboriginal children. The school closed in 1970 and was vacant for 20 years until a First Nations partnership?turned this icon of an often sad period of history into the beautiful resort of today.

Visit the Ktunaxa Interpretive Centre to learn about the Nation's 10,000-year history, dine at Purcell Grill and try your luck at the Casino of the Rockies.

Publication Date: 6/2007