CANYON ICE WALKS
Deep canyons with towering walls are a legacy of giant glaciers that once blanketed the Rocky Mountains. When these icefields receded 10,000 years ago, the eroding power of the ice and ensuing floodwaters carved natural wonders such as Grotto, Johnston and Maligne Canyons. When winter hits, it’s lock down time for the rivers that ply canyon floors. Waterfalls that cascade from limestone cliffs freeze solid.

A visit to a Rocky Mountain canyon is like a trip to the ice age where you are surrounded by magnificent frosty formations and bathed in surreal blue light. The eerie silence is broken only by the crunch of ice crystals underfoot and the rush of water that has broken through its translucent barrier. Moon- and headlamp-lit excursions enhance the out-of-this-world feeling, although during the day you can often see ice climbers engaged in their dramatic sport.

Exercise caution if you trek the canyons on your own. Winter boots aren’t made for slippery surfaces—take ski poles, and rent ice cleats that strap onto footwear at SnowTips in Banff, Jasper’s Totem Ski Shop or GearUp in Canmore. Consider taking a tour with a licensed company in Banff or Jasper. They provide all the gear, transportation to and from the canyon, and (usually) snacks and hot chocolate. Guides show visitors sights they might miss on their own, and impart insider knowledge about the canyon and its features. Popular canyons for two to three hour ice walks are:

Maligne Canyon, Jasper: Pinch yourself to prove that the 30 m (80 ft) icefalls, limestone walls and frozen river channels are not just a frosty dream. This is the deepest canyon in the Canadian Rockies where water surges from 20 km (12 mi) below the earth’s surface and then creates fabulous ice formations. “Go when it’s cold,” suggests Jasper Adventure Tours guide Wayne Robinson. “Beautiful feather frost comes out of cave vents when it’s -20°C.” Most stunning of all are the Queen of Maligne, Angel and Bridal Icefalls. Enter the Canyon at 5th Bridge.

Johnston Canyon, Banff: Tourists flock here in summer, but during winter the canyon is far less crowed—good news for ice walkers who like their nature tranquil. Stroll steel boardwalks anchored to the limestone walls, and pass through a natural rock tunnel to get to the 10 m (33 ft) Lower Falls. Ice cascades tinted blue-green by minerals shine against the yellow-grey limestone walls. At 30 m (98 ft) Upper Falls is the Cathedral of Ice, “a dramatic site,” says Daymon Miller of Discover Banff Tours. The trailhead is by Johnston Canyon Resort (closed winter), Bow Valley Pkwy/Hwy 1A.

Grotto Canyon, Canmore: The least traveled of the three, Grotto Canyon is not an ice walk for the claustrophobic. The deeper you travel into the gorge, the higher the cliffs rise around you. “One of the secrets are the First Nations rock paintings,” says Miller. “But they’re hard to find if you don’t know where to look.” Easier to spot are the icefalls that rise to 28 m (90 ft) from the frozen valley floor—you may spot ice climbers deftly maneuvering high above. The trail starts at the Grotto Pond parking lot, Hwy 1A near Exshaw east of Canmore—walk west past the Baymag magnesium plant and north along the creek bed.

SKATING
Gliding across a frozen lake with vast nature all around stirs a sense of freedom from within—ice skating (and playing hockey) is a core characteristic that defines us as Canadian. Give it a try, although it’s not as easy at it looks. Skate rentals are offered at The Fairmont Banff Springs, Chateau Lake Louise and Jasper Park Lodge hotels, as well as SnowTips in Banff, GearUp in Canmore, Jasper Source for Sports and Kananaskis Outfitters. Use only venues maintained for skating, as you don’t want to end up on the wrong side of the ice. There’s no charge to use any of these outdoor rinks:

At The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, ice on the Lac Beauvert rectangular rink and the huge oval on Lake Mildred is kept smooth by Zamboni resurfacing machine. Rinks inside the oval often host shinny, impromptu hockey without the pads—join in (hockey sticks are rented at the Lodge). During peak times there are bonfires and hot chocolate. The Jasper Activity Centre offers indoor skating and drop-in hockey.

Evergreen trees, Rundle Mountain view and a fire pit provide ambiance at the rink by the Waldhaus restaurant behind Banff's Fairmont Banff Springs hoteL. There is also indoor and outdoor skating (and shinny) at the Banff Recreation Centre.

There is skating on the quaint Kananaskis Village Centre Pond in the park-like courtyard between the hotels. Nearby is a hockey rink. Both venues are lit at night.

Two blocks from Main St is Canmore Pond (7 Ave at 10 St), a large skating area popular with families—no hockey sticks are allowed (hockey-friendly rinks are Cougar Creek and Canmore Daycare). Indoor skating is at Canmore Recreation Centre.

The Victoria Glacier is the backdrop of the Zamboni-smooth rink on Lake Louise behind The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. There is a hockey area, and in the middle is a giant ice castle that is lit at night. Amazing ice sculptures carved during the Ice Magic International Sculpture Competition (Jan 25-27) add to the magical atmosphere.

PRO HOCKEY
The National Hockey League (NHL) is where the world’s best players of Canada’s national game ply their trade. In the Bow Valley, locals root for the Calgary Flames, while in Jasper the Edmonton Oilers are the favourite team. During game times, sports TVs at Rockies’ bars are tuned to hockey. Drop in for a pint and to take in the action.

Better yet, sample an NHL hockey game in the company of die-hard Flames fans at the Calgary Saddledome. Banff tour companies offer trips; en route guides enlighten those less familiar with the game with hockey trivia and information.

ICE FISHING
Unlike other activities on ice, fishing enthusiasts are interested in what’s under the frozen surface—around here, mostly lake trout and whitefish. Fishers auger a hole through the ice and drop a line with a tube jig, smelt, spoon or fly. Up and down jigging attracts fish.

Guides operate heated shelters on Spray Lakes near Canmore, and provide gear, snacks and hot drinks. Some use underwater cameras to capture the live action. Usually, lunch consists of your fresh catch.

ICE CLIMBING
Few visitors think to defy gravity and scale a wall of ice during their holiday. Yet this technical sport can be safely experienced by first-timers who go with guides furnished by Yamnuska in Canmore or Jasper’s Gravity Gear.

Those who try ice climbing learn to navigate the icefall using hand-held ice axes and spiked crampons affixed to climbing boots. Safety is provided by a belay of 4000 pound-rated ice screws, harness and ropes—one end is attached to the climber, the other controlled by the guide's steady hand.

Where editor Lisa Stephens explains that on her first climb her Yamnuska guide “taught me how to choose good ice to pick with the hand tools. I climbed a few feet and descended using the belay—each time I went higher. It was exhilarating, and easier than I anticipated.”

Ice climbing’s growing popularity is reflected in the Arc’Teryx Canmore Ice Climbing Festival (Dec 7-9). Top climbers compete on an 18 m (60 ft) man-made ice wall, and regular folks can participate in clinics.

Publication Date: 12/2007