Reviewed in the Dec/Jan '06/'07 issue of Ciao!

At Bistro 7 ¼, getting a table within desirable dining hours has been almost impossible for months. From the outside looking in, this little bistro seems a quaint neighbourhood spot—what’s the big deal? The long, airy-yet-cozy room is packed throughout the week. Chef Alex Svenne, formerly of Pineridge Hollow fame, is the big deal. He has taken the chef-as-showman trend to the next level—smack in the middle of the dining room is his small open kitchen.

The space is simply, but nicely decorated. Gentle blue and chocolate brown walls, local art and wall fixtures feel like home (do I own these water glasses?) and that is comforting. At the same time, the vibe is excited, voices are raised giving diners a sense that they’re in the thick of it all—low talkers consider yourselves warned. Reassuringly most of the dirty prep-work is done in the second kitchen behind the bar, leaving the glamourous—if you can call it that—work for display. For a really close look, try the Chef’s Table. Actually a handful of seats at the kitchen counter, the Chef’s Table allows voyeurs to get a front row glimpse of the action where they may pick up a technique or two.

Even two tables away, the occasional lick of heat can be felt as pans of mussels are flambéed. The whole thing feels like Chef Svenne has welcomed us into his comfy-chic home for fabulous food and a kitchen-side show, making this such a full experience.

That’s not to say it’s all smoke and mirrors. The food should be, above all else, the draw. The menu reads mostly French, with hints of European influence. It changes seasonally and is arranged according to plate size. For the undecided this is a good thing. Ordering several small plates and bowls allows ample exploration opportunities.

A piping hot loaf of crusty French bread is first to hit the table and the fight over the accompanying roasted garlic in olive oil is a good sign of things to come.

On the small plate section are two sure winners: a rich duck confit served on peppery arugula with smooth goat cheese and sweet cherries and a trio of salads that is a great tour of the textures and flavours of the autumn harvest. The tangy squash and apple, earthy beet and carrot and refreshing cauliflower and coriander were so good we almost asked for seconds.

The signature moules et frites are not to be missed (and at $7.25 quite possibly the best deal in town). A traditional version has fennel, leek and Pernod bathing the clattering shells with licorice-hinted cream. The side kick of crisp shoestring fries is great for soaking up the sauce.

Large plates are, as promised, amply sized. This is one of the few menus in town to boast the lauded and locally raised Berkshire pork. In Chef Svenne’s version, the roasted loin is tender and moist accompanied with sweet pears and walnuts and served with rich and velvety blue cheese mashed potatoes. A hearty, stick to your ribs dish.

Braised lamb shank with kasha is succulent and literally falls off the bone. Served in a rich sauce of prune, fig and apricot it stands up well to the notorious potency of the buckwheat, but the dried fruit could have used more time to soften in the pan.

If there is possibly any room leftover for dessert, 7 ¼ has some gems and clearly diners are making room, with many popular dishes selling out before the night is over. Most are available in half portions—a welcome trend. In classic French style, a cheese plate is available with daily selections announced on a giant blackboard. Elvis’s favourite pound cake is dense, smells heavenly and is served with warm, fried bananas and vanilla ice cream. So simple and comforting, and so good.